Sewing. Motherhood. Domestic Engineering.

Over all this project took a whole day (I think I even spent more time blogging about it) but I haven't sewn properly for many years so it was all a bit of a test, could definitely do it quicker. Was almost going to run out of thread actually and probably would have but I used white thread on the lighter frills and in some spots where the thread wouldn't be seen. 4/5 for an awesome project and I would consider this an 'easy' level for anyone else thinking about having ago :) So here you have it! The finished product! And I'm rather pleased with it.   Free Apron Pattern - Picking Materials Free Apron Pattern - Budget Free Apron Pattern - Prep and Cutting Free Apron Pattern - Step 1 Free Apron Pattern - Step 2 Free Apron Pattern - Step 3 Free Apron Pattern - Step 4 Free Apron Pattern - Step 5 Free Apron Pattern - Step 6 Free Apron Pattern - Step 7 Free Apron Pattern - Step 8 Free Apron Patt

Step 10 Instruction provided: Pin straps to top edge (25cm) of front bib leaving a 1cm seam allowance at each side. pin back to front bib with right sides facing and sew around three sides leaving bottom edge open, catching ties in to. Neaten lower edge of bib. Place ironed edge of waistband over the seam and pin on the outside. Pin bib to ironed edge of waistband, matching centres. Sew close to the seam on the outside catching the ironed edge of the facing and bib on underside. Pin bib to top edge of waistband and sew close to folded edge. Press. Click on the pictures to see them bigger. Raw edges of the straps to the top of the front panel. Pin the straps in place and throw a pin in the middle for more accuracy. After stitching top and both sides (being careful not to sew the straps into the side) I have added a zigzag and cut the corner off the avoid bunching in the corner. Turn it the right way out and give it a press all over. Sew the raw edge (bottom) of the

Step 9 Instruction provided: Pin ties to right side at each end of waistband, fold waistband over, right sides together, encasing ties and sew across ends of waistband, trim corners. Turn waistband right side out and press. Don't Sew into the ironed fold bit. Zigzag for added strength as this will have the most tension on it. Pull them out and give it all an iron. Could definitely stop here, tidy up the waistband and make it a half apron but I'm determined to keep going :)

Step 8 Instruction provided: Fold ties in half lengthways with right sides facing, using one 1cm seam allowance sew across one end and down the long side, trim corners, turn right side out and press. Repeat for the bib straps. Layout ties good side up.     Fold lengthways and use the iron again to get a good fold (this will also make it easier to sew). Do a 1cm seam. Here is a video on how to do a continuous seam around the corner. It just involves leaving the needle in the down position when it gets to the 1cm point, lifting the foot and turning the fabric. Don't use the edge of the foot for this one, most sewing machines will have measurements on the plate. Cut the corners to avoid bunching. Start turning the fabric right side out. Give them another iron to get the shape perfect. Just massage the seam to get it right to the edge and then press it. Do the same thing with the neck straps.  When you get them

Step 7 Instruction provided: Turn one long edge of waistband under 1cm and press. Pin other long edge across top of skirt with right sides together, align raw edges and match centre fronts. Sew waistband to top edge of apron. Press seam towards waistband. I think the width of this press will depend on the width of other hems and seams. Having finished the project now I can note that I had to adjust the fold to about 5mm to get it to sit better and make it easier to sew. Pin it along the raw edge good side facing down.  Did a zigzag on the waistband attachment for extra strength. Because I had done by initial zigzag on the frill too far away from the edge when I lifted the waistband back this was visible. The pink gathers aren't a worry they just pulled out. I started unpicking the zigzag and got sick of it so I have entombed it in the apron by sewing another line on the waistband that covered it :P so naughty! But it worked.

Step 6 Instruction provided: Add fabric 1 frill as in step 4 aligning raw edge of the frill with top edge of skirt. This frill goes the right way up and just line the raw edge with the top of the skirt piece. Only pin this, not stitching yet.

Step 5 Instruction provided: Add fabric 3 frill as in step 4. Once again pretty straight forward. Don't forget to press the excess above the seam down towards the bottom of the skirt to give the backside a smoother finish.

Step 4 Instruction provided: Pin fabric 4 frill wrong side down onto right side of skirt at 16cm sewing line, match centre fronts and gather evenly. Sew in place.  Add the next frill. And do the same. Can't use the 10mm gauge here, guess you could use a ruler if you were keen on a 10mm seam but I just used the edge of the foot. You can chose to either remove the gather stitches or leave them in, I took out ones that annoyed me and left in others...yes inconsistent but I can live with that. No one can see it anyway.

Step 3 Instruction provided: Pin fabric 2 frill to lower edge of skirt with right sides together, align raw edges, match centres and gather to fit. Distribute gathers evenly. Place fabric 5 frill right side down onto the wrong side of fabric2 frill match centres, align raw edges and gather to fit. Pin in place. With fabric 2 frill sandwiched between fabric 5 frill and skirt, sew using 1cm seam allowance. Press seam allowance towards skirt. Lay out the frills and decide what order you want them in. Remembering that the larger frill will always be the bottom one. It is at this point I realise my bird material on the bottom is upside down. I assumed it when both ways...wrong. Pretty straight forward from here. Keep the raw edges neatly together and place a pin approximately every 5cm. I was doing larger spacing but after the first stitch wanted the gather to stay exactly as I had put it.   Chuck on the longer frill next.  Make sure that the edges are

Step 2 Instruction provided: Hem both sides of the apron skirt. Using chalk pencil rule a line across the skirt 8cm from the top edge and again at 16cm from the top edge. The top and bottom of this piece is not specified but for those who aren't sure, it goes long ways around you so hem the shorter edges. I hemmed this just like I did the frills, double fold (ironed first) and used the edge of the foot to guide the stitch. The instructions don't specify which side to rule these lines on (noting that it will also be the side that we sew the frills to) so I decided that because we won't be able to see what is under the fills that I would face the right side out towards me and have the frills on the wrong side.

Step 1 Instruction provided: Hem both sides and lower edges of all frills. Neaten the top edge of all frills with zigzag stitch or overlocker. Sew a gathering stitch along the top edge of all frills and gather evenly. Hem size isn't specified so I did what I consider a standard size - 10mm. And because I don't have an overlocker I did a double fold.  With a single stitch. For the stitch I just used the edge of the foot as a guide. And I found it was better to hem the sides before the bottom. You will find another post of mine with a link to how to do ' Miter Hemming ' but after doing a few practices of this I decided it was too time consuming. I just like looking at this fabric ☺ My zigzags - probably could have been a wee bit closer to the edge...but its not :P Sew to straight stitches next to each other (see the pink ones) next to the zigzag or overlocked edge. Make sure you keep the tails of the thread long at each end. Check o

For anyone else trying to work out how to hem corners awesomely check out this video. It a bit drawn out but very descriptive and anyone should be able to do it after watching it just once.  I think it looks really awesome and tidy. Thanks TreadleLady ✿

Preparation and cutting -  Now that you've got all the materials together the first thing that needs to be done before any cutting is ironing. It may seem a bit ridiculous at first but you get better more even cuts because the fabric is totally smooth (see the photo on the right). Also only iron on the reverse side of the fabric so it doesn't make the front shiny. There are two ways you can mark out your pattern on the fabric: using stencils cut from paper or by ruling and marking on the fabric. I did a mixture of the two and I found it worked really well for me. I had a stencil for the frills with a flap that extended it to make the larger frill from fabric 5. I cut them out of newspaper (I didn't have any issues but need to be careful about ink transfer from the newspaper to the fabric) and pinned the stencils to the fabric. Then when I was ready to cut out fabric 2 I used a steel ruler and pencil to mark all the shapes out, this worked because the lovely lady at S